James McHaffie: From Bold Climbing to Novel Writing

James McHaffie needs no introduction, at least in the United Kingdom. His approach to bold onsight climbing, particularly free solos, is unparalleled. He’s repeated the hardest sport climb in Wales, Big Bang (9a), sent Britain’s hardest sea cliff, Dave MacLeod’s The Longhope Direct (E10 7a), and made the first ascent of The Meltdown, a 9a slab in the slate quarries of his home in North Wales. And now he’s written a book. But unlike many books released by elite climbers, this is not an autobiographical account of hard climbs in the face of relative adversity. Caff, as he prefers to be called, has written a fictional account of Eleri, a young woman amongst the slate quarries of North Wales who in the aftermath of a family suicide takes aim at British politicians who pushed for austerity and the conditions that led to such suffering. 

This conversation was such a gift. I can see even through all that rage that James is brimming with humanity, a trait sometimes in short supply. I hope you’ll enjoy this one as much as I did.

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Mike Piper: Down To The Essence Of Smart Money Management

Mike Piper is a CPA and the creator of the Oblivious Investor blog, where he teaches a philosophy of simple and low-maintenance investing.

Mike’s simple philosophy distills down to three primary principles:

  1. Diversify your portfolio
  2. Minimize costs (commissions, fees, mutual fund expenses, taxes)
  3. Ignore the noise.

Mike began his career as a CPA before realizing he could support himself by writing books. Surprisingly, he left his secure job during the 2008 financial crisis. He has gone on to publish seventeen books and is widely considered an expert in social security, tax, and a number of other personal finance topics. His work has been featured in the Wall Street Journal, Forbes, and Morningstar, to name a few.

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Eric Horst: A Climber and Creator for Life

Today on episode 34 I’m excited to have climber, author, coach, and business owner Eric Horst. Many of you are aware of Eric’s multifaceted influence on climbing, notably performance rock climbing. He is a pioneering figure in the world of climbing training and the author of the international bestselling (and well-named) book, Training for Climbing.

But this guy gets a lot done. In 2020, Eric retired at age 56 as director of Millersville University’s Weather Information Center near his hometown of Lancaster, PA. But he didn’t really retire.

Eric is now properly embracing his love of climbing, leaning into his new business, PhysiVantage, a supplement company for performance climbers.

In this wide-ranging interview we tackle Eric’s recent climbing ambitions since retirement, how he has built a company from scratch, and perhaps most importantly, some key systems Eric uses to maintain his high workload while still enjoying the sport and the family he loves.

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EP 7: Luke Mehall: The Dirtbag Dream is Not Enough

Today I’m happy to welcome climber, author, and founder of the Climbing Zine, Luke Mehall. Luke is the kind of climber I thought I would never reach with a platform focused on saving, investing, and financial wellness. Luke existed for many years as a self-proclaimed hand-to-mouth dirtbag. He lived on the road for months at a time, barely making ends meet. But as Luke puts it, “the dirtbag dream is not enough.”

At a low point in his life, Luke started publishing stories about the climbing life that didn’t have a home in the major publications. The Climbing Zine was born, which has now grown into a thriving business and paved a path for Luke’s personal and creative freedom. Now he’s turning his focus to expanding the business and facing all the real-life adult stuff so many of us will find familiar: buying a home, saving for the future, and generally evolving with the roller coaster ride that is the modern world.

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