I’m very pleased to welcome back to Clipping Chains Mark Anderson, an elite-level climber, father, husband, training enthusiast, and now-former full-time engineer and manager. Mark and his family have recently achieved financial independence, allowing Mark to step away from his career and focus first on family, and perhaps surprisingly, climbing as a distant second priority.
You’ll probably recognize Mark as part of the Anderson Brothers duo. Along with his twin brother Mike, the Anderson brothers are known not only for their climbing and real-life juggling act, but for their Rock Prodigy Training Manual. That book and training plan resulted in a surge in training popularity following the 2014 publication.
Mark, while juggling many real-world obligations, has sent 5.14d, nabbed the first free ascent of Spaceshot (5.13a) in Zion National Park, freed El Cap, and has even summited Denali.
Topics Discussed with Mark Anderson
- The dilemma of steady partners for elite climbers
- Mark’s new life mode since quitting his job
- “The Great Resignation” and the changing dynamics of crowds and outdoor spaces
- Mark’s renewed focus on his children and their growing interest in soccer
- The Rock Prodigy training plan: Mark’s thoughts on how the plan has held up to the test of time
- How Mark currently trains and spends time climbing outside
- Mark’s send of Shadowboxing (5.14d) and the toll it took on him and his family
- Mark’s youthful dirtbagging days and why he could never live that way long-term
- The controversy of bolting restrictions and the future of first ascents
- The pros and cons of staying in an undesirable job
- The Anderson philosophy on frugality, saving, and investing
- A much-deserved shout-out to Mark’s wife and the sacrifices of belayers
- Climbing and retiring early with kids
Get in Touch with Mark Anderson
Original Interview: Mark Anderson: Fully Optimized
Rock Prodigy Training Website and Blog
Relevant Interviews and Articles
The Great Resignation is Accelerating (The Atlantic)
In Contrast: The Reality of Life on the Road
The Simple and Complicated Life on the Road
How Mark chose Shadowboxing (RPTM)
Mark on sending Shadowboxing (RPTM)
EP 7: Luke Mehall: The Dirtbag Dream is Not Enough
Mark Anderson on climbing with an infant (RPTM)
Books Mentioned
Rock Prodigy Training Manual (book)
Training for the Uphill Athlete, by Steve House, Scott Johnston, et al.
The Millionaire Next Door: Amazing Secrets of America’s Wealthy
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