Matt Samet: The Uncertain Future of Climbing Media

Today on episode 36 I’m pleased to welcome climber, author, editor, father, and prolific first ascensionist Matt Samet. Recently, Matt was unexpectedly laid off from his position as editor of Climbing Magazine, a position he has held on and off for nearly two decades.

The state of media, particularly print media, is something that has held my attention in recent years. Although I’ve considered reaching out to Matt for some time to discuss his career in writing and climbing journalism, this finally felt like the right moment.

Join us as we take a deeper dive on media, journalism, balancing climbing and other life obligations, as well as some good-ole-fashioned musings on the modern climbing life.

Topics Discussed with Matt Samet

Matt’s unexpected layoff
The state of magazines and print media
The relationship of social media and athletes and the impact on print media
Matt’s choice to pursue writing as a career
Dealing with nonconstructive feedback
How to get involved with professional writing and tips for getting published
Matt’s battle with benzodiazepine addiction
Tactics for integrating climbing into a career
Finding time to be a prolific first ascensionist
How Matt might be climbing his hardest ever at age 50
Matt’s thoughts on what’s next in his career
So much more!

Matt Samet looking up at a still red-tagged project, River Wall, Button Rock Reservoir, Lyons, Colorado, in May 2022. (Photo: James Lucas)

Matt Samet on Paul Glover’s trad masterpiece the Inside Passage (5.13a R), Flying Flatiron, Flatirons, Colorado, back in 2010. It climbs out a huge slot/cave about a 1.5-hour hike uphill and goes on all gear. (Photo: Ted Lanzano) — Matt Samet on Paul Glover’s trad masterpiece “The Inside Passage,” (5.13a R) Flying Flatiron, Flatirons, Colorado, back in 2010. It climbs out a huge slot/cave about a 1.5-hour hike uphill and goes on all gear. (Photo: Ted Lanzano)

On Nephson (5.13c), Hillbilly Rock, Flatirons. This route and this wall have become very popular in the past few years. Photo: Ryan Pecknold — Matt Samet on his route “Nephson” (5.13c), Hillbilly Rock, Flatirons. (Photo: Ryan Pecknold)

Matt Samet on the FA of "Joe Exotic," (5.14-) Hillbilly Rock, Flatirons, Colorado, on the cusp of his 50th birthday in 2021. (Photo: Matt Segal) — Matt Samet on the FA of “Joe Exotic,” (5.14-) Hillbilly Rock, Flatirons, Colorado, on the cusp of his 50th birthday in 2021. (Photo: Matt Segal)

Get in Touch with Matt Samet

Matt Samet in Instagram

Matt Samet’s Climbing Magazine Archives

Matt Samet’s Books

The Crusty Corner Column

Other Podcasts Mentioned

Training Beta Podcast 187: Matt Samet on Climbing Hard at 50 and Route Development

Books

Horton Hears a Who! (Dr. Seuss)

The Underground Railroad (Colson Whitehead)

Crime and Punishment (Fyodor Dostoyevsky)

Post Office: A Novel (Charles Bukowski)

Journey to the End of the Night (Louis-Ferdinand Céline)

Clipping Chains Posts

A list of all articles and podcast episodes is here.

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