If you’ve been in this climbing world for more than a few days, you know that my guest interview today, Jonathan Siegrist, needs no introduction. He’s simply one of the world’s top climbers, and he’s crushed it in all major facets of this game we play — sport, bouldering, and trad.
We’re going to mix things up this week and feature Jonathan not because he’s pursuing a life of financial independence or running a business, but because he works damn hard and is a man with a plan. He is laser focused on his goals, but he knows there will be more to life than professional climbing. There’s not much luck in this story.
A Touch of Background
I don’t personally know Jonathan, but I sure would enjoy the chance. The guy has an incredible character — absolutely gushing with passion for rock climbing. In that sense his success is somewhat predictable. He has infectious motivation to dig deep and push himself, and it’s no surprise that sponsors have been (likely) tripping over themselves to get a chance at working with him.
I reached out to Jonathan because he’s one of my favorite climbers. Period. When I started climbing in 2010, he was becoming more of a household name. I’ve enjoyed seeing his career explode and dump confetti over the last 8+ years.
Jonathan began climbing seriously in 2004, netted his first sponsor only three years later, and by 2012 was a fully professional climber. In the intervening years he’s been a Johnny Appleseed of rocking climbing, ripping across the country, putting down the hardest routes and establishing many of his own. More recently, Jonathan has established himself in the upper echelon of 5.15 climbing, sending some of the hardest lines on the globe.
Right…But What Else?
But if you’re a climber, you already knew that. That’s the stuff out there on a pedestal. But what’s life really like behind the scenes? How does a professional athlete support themselves in a sport where money is still kept in small coffers? And most importantly, what comes after pro climbing?
But before we begin, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention this fun fact: I met Jonathan’s parents in Ten Sleep, WY in 2014. I’m sure they don’t remember me. BUT, I saw Mrs. Siegrist whip out an awesome little banana holder, which has changed my banana game forever. Check one out, put bruised bananas in your past, and raise a glass to the Siegrist family.
Jonathan Siegrist: Career-Changing Moments
I wanted to get a sense of a few highlight moments in Jonathan’s career thus far. Note, I wasn’t looking necessarily for the hardest grades, but more along the lines of boundary-expanding moments that made him dig deep.
JS: Climbing the second ascent of The Honeymoon is Over IV 5.13 on the Diamond (Rocky Mountain National Park, CO) in 2012 was important for me. It was a huge learning experience to wall climb at such a high level, and it took a lot of courage from me at the time.
I also really value my climbing trip to the Red River Gorge in 2009. It was the first time that I really tried my project grade away from home. The Red suited me so well at the time that I really had a great trip, which resulted in my first bit of recognition from the broader climbing community.
Lastly was my preparation for Biographie, 5.15a (Ceuse, France) in 2014. That route influenced me to start actually training and really fundamentally changed my attitude towards goal setting and preparation. CC: More on that process here.
Typical Lifestyle
CC: What’s your typical lifestyle in a year, if there is such a thing? Are you still living out of your truck part of the year, and renting an apartment some other portion of the year?
JS: Well sadly that stage in my life has kind of come to a close! I moved into a house in Las Vegas and now I have a spot to unpack, with a refrigerator and all of that stuff. Travel is still present at least half of the year, but it’s definitely a change from the 7 years that I spent on the road.
I miss the road life for sure; I still have the truck and I definitely still spend months at a time sleeping in it. Travel will always be a huge driving motivation for me, but it does feel nice to have a proper home base.
The Demands of Sponsored Life
My sponsors know what they can expect from me. They trust me to do my thing and work hard for them with little to no pressure. Not everyone in the industry has this kind of relationship. -Jonathan Siegrist
JS: So first off, every sponsor has different kinds of demands of their athletes. In general, the athlete is an ambassador for the company. The athlete helps them by sharing their stories and providing inspirational marketing material. We also help by adding credibility to their products and brand by using the stuff in the most bad-ass ways possible. Some athletes also work in research and development projects (as I do for Arcteryx, La Sportiva and Metolius).
CC: What percentage of your trips and goals are driven by you, and how much is perhaps suggested by your sponsors?
JS: I dictate 90% of my schedule and 100% of my climbing ambition. There has never been pressure from any sponsor to climb a certain route or anything like that.
I am required to help them with banner events. These events are especially important to them, and I can come and have an impact.
I’m very lucky in that I have developed amazing relationships with my brands over many years (some more than a decade). They know me, know my ambitions, and they know what I am all about. My sponsors know what they can expect from me. They trust me to do my thing and work hard for them with little to no pressure. Not everyone in the industry has this kind of relationship.
Other Sources of Income
JS: I do paid slide-shows and clinics/events. I also do slide-shows and clinics for climbing events to help support my sponsors that are not necessarily directly compensated. Finally, I do uncompensated events for nonprofits like the Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund, because they kick ass.
Sometimes I get awesome one-time commercial gigs like a shoot for Apple, or Nikon etc (which are super rad).
I write articles for editorials and sometimes for blogs, etc.
Very occasionally I sell a photograph.
I still do some route setting a couple times a year.
Life After Pro Climbing
CC: Ok, here’s the big one. Hard climbing gets even harder as you age. You know this. I’m really impressed with what folks are doing in their later years, but big-grade professional climbing is largely a young man/woman’s game (for now). At current, what are your perceptions on how sponsors will handle high-performing athletes as they age out of top-tier climbing abilities?
JS: Yes, it’s definitely true that at some point we all must move on from performance focused careers. Just like any athlete must. I also think it’s important to one day free up the resources for someone young and super hungry, so they can have the same opportunities that I’ve had. I’m sure that sponsors would agree with me on that one.
I’ve definitely given this a lot of thought. I hope and plan to have a good handful of full performance years ahead of me. That being said, I feel confident that I can be of value to my brands and the community for a while beyond that, in one way or another.
CC: In the unlikely event you have no sponsors some time in the future, what are your thoughts on securing your finances?
I think there will ultimately come a time when I want to start a new path outside of climbing altogether. I’ve thought about teaching middle school or elementary school for many years. I’ve also thought about starting a business.
For the first 5 years or so of my ‘professional’ climbing career, I just assumed that it would be a short-lived opportunity. But I kept working hard and the opportunities are still coming, so I feel even more motivated every year to continue as a professional climber.
The Efficiency Machine
JS: I’m really driven and I get so much enjoyment out of climbing my hardest and trying hard as hell. The real difficulty for the most part is finding space and time to chill.
I try to build a few weeks into every year where I just take it mellow, because I know my body and mind need it. For my entire career I have prioritized my climbing over everything else, but occasionally a rest period is forced from something health- or life-related.
Each form of life has its own role and every one is important. Training lets me focus on preparation; it’s actually the only time of the year when I have something of a ‘routine’. This is also my opportunity to take on more ambitious life goals or projects outside of climbing.
Travel and projecting is a time for exploration and simplicity, where climbing and sensation is the key ingredient. The chill times are for reflection and goal setting, making plans, and seeing my friends outside of the climbing community.
Below is a well-crafted short video by Tara Kerzhner walking through the background of training and pushing the comfort envelope for this silly rock climbing life. Jonathan and now-celebrity Alex Honnold team up to tackle projects outside of their standard repertoire.
Habits for Success
If you’re the kind of person that seeks out challenges, then it shouldn’t matter how long or how much effort something takes you. The “effort” part is the goal… – Jonathan Siegrist
JS: I think above all the key is patience and grit. Trying not to feel this sense of ‘deserving’ something, or entitlement to success. Just keep trying or stop.
If you’re the kind of person that seeks out challenges, then it shouldn’t matter how long or how much effort something takes you. The ‘effort’ part is the goal anyways.
CC: How do you think these personality traits will help you in your life after top-tier climbing?
JS: Man they really already have! I think always being ready for hard work makes major life decisions much easier. Facing difficulty head on helps one overcome obstacles sooner and more enthusiastically.
Well, that’s all folks. Be sure to check out Jonathan on Instagram and keep up with the latest. Keep an eye out here for more interviews in the works, and please don’t hesitate to continue reaching out with great interview ideas. We’re open to pros, business leaders, or just regular ole’ climbers with a plan. What’s your story?
Remember, the best laid plans mean nothing if you can’t take action today. Have questions? Need some feedback? Hit us up on the contact page.
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Thanks guys, see you next week.
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Mega, mega CRUSHER! A really nice guy too 🙂